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Posts: 9
Location: Tasmania | Have a 2006 380GT 95,000k's. Replacing timing belt with engine still in the vehicle. Currently unable to remove the engine support bracket because of the long bolts. Need instructions and possible photos if that would help me. Cheers Mike |
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Frequent flyer Gold
Posts: 1093
  
Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | just go to repco and supercheap auto ask for 17mm long reach socket...piece of cake.
your biggest hurdle will be taking off harmonic balancer pulley...there is a trick to it, it needs to come off to get the last bolt off from the plastic timing cover.
I usually get a big alan key and position it to jam into the chassis rail, that stope engine from spinning enough to loosen the bolt.
good luck, hope you know what you are doing...
make sure you line up the top dead center mark and the knotches on the rocker covers to ensure you are on the compression stroke. |
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Frequent flyer Gold
Posts: 1093
Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | just noticed you are in Tasmania...I am here for a few days in the dunalley area. |
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Posts: 9
Location: Tasmania | I trust you will enjoy your stay in Dunalley.
The problem I am having is getting the long bolts out of the engine mount. I drop the engine down a bit but I heard alot of creaking and was wondering if I was going to break something ie exhaust etc. Is it OK to lower the engine on the timing belt side by the jack to a point where the bolts will come out easily. My concern is breaking something by lowering the engine on the that side. I was wondering if other components need to be dismantled before lowering.
I am working off a jack on the floor or should I consider someone with a hoist to do the job.
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Frequent flyer Gold
Posts: 1093
Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | you do not need to take engine mount out to do the timing belt.
there's your answer....
but in any event it will just jam against the chassis rail, if you let it go completely. |
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Posts: 9
Location: Tasmania | Thank you for taking time out to inform me. Cheers |
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Frequent flyer Gold
Posts: 1093
Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | I own an island off Dunalley and am staying there for a few days,
If you have the car in bits and are near Hobart I can pop over and give you some tips. |
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Posts: 9
Location: Tasmania | Hobart. Thank you for your offer. It is interesting to read the engine mount is not removed. The workshop manual says it must be removed. In saying that, it is important to get other people's views. Some manuals leave a lot to be desired. The vehicle is back on the road. Timing belt and other components have not been replaced. Look at doing it at a later date now I am aware of the procedure. Cheers. |
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Frequent flyer Gold
Posts: 1093
Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | I will post some pics for you in a few days |
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Posts: 5
| You can do it with or without the mount removed. And the mount does come out, you just need to wiggle it around and lower & raise the engine a smidge on a jack to get the bolts out & back in again.
If you don't have a tensioner pulley tool (the one with the two pegs that fits in the two holes) you can make one out of a 13mm 1/4" socket. Just use a hacksaw & grinder to shape it so it has two pegs on opposite sides. Works a treat, but make the two pegs as short as possible to avoid them breaking ( sockets aren't all that strong when they are cut).
Its a pretty easy job to do once you finally get to the timing belt. Adjusting the tensioner to within specks might take u a couple of goes if u haven't done it before, but it's not too hard.
It seems to me after doing about 10 of these DB380 Timing belts that they all seem to be at the correct tension when you have the two holes in the tensioner pulley lined up parallel with the automatic tensioner body. I still measure to be sure, but every one has been in the exact same position when they are at correct tension. |
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How to replace timing belt / idler and water pump
