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 Removing 6G75 V6 engine from Mitsubishi 380Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [10 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
| Technical info for the 380 -> 6G75 section | Message format |
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Frequent flyer Gold Posts: 1093     Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | Hints:- Some useful pre advice... Disconnect the battery and remove it from the car. Start with as little fuel in the car as possible. Remove the entire exhaust system inc manifolds right up to the start of the floor tunnel Then the exhaust manifold heat shields with 12mm bolts (3 on each cover) need to be removed...you will love that bit on the firewall side. Remove both exhaust manifolds and precats, the manifold uses 14mm nuts to the heads, you will need triple extensions on the firewall side and maybe a universal joint There may be a requirement for removing the oxygen sensors unless you are a contortionist....get yourself an o2 sensor tool...about 20 bucks, saves lotsa angst. You will need a big 32mm socket to take the driveshaft nut off, and a new split pin when refitting. You MUST remove the drivers' side driveshaft, first remove the two 14mm bolts holding the support to the engine block...nice and difficult but much easier after all exhaust is removed....one of the bolts is hidden and recessed. remove the lower driver's side wishbone retaing nut and bolt...two 17mm sockets needed. Just pull the driveshaft out by rotating it gently, only a small amount of trans fluid will ooze out, nothing to worry about. Do not pull the driveshaft out from the far end...the CV joint will come apart silly. It is impossible to access the two upper 17mm bell housing bolts without undoing 5 bolts on the water pump neck extension pipe....see the photo in the next post. These bolts are the ones that hold the water pump extension housing to head. In particular is one that fastens the shaft that goes through the "V" to the T section. You must remove that because there isn't enough room to remove the entire pipe. Put a block of wood under the sump just before you start undoing bell housing bolts and engine mount. you Do have an engine leveler bar on your engine crane don't you? (If not prepare for grazed knuckles and unnecessary difficulty) (a) engine comes out the top very easily, first remove the bonnet...the gas strut clip it prises away at 90 degrees with flat screwdriver...but be careful it's a heavy bonnet. (b) remove all connectors, hoses and all other obvious crap (c) remove both radiator fans as an assembly...saves damageing them and more room to manouvre engine. (d) let all the air con gas out...save yourself a lot of headaches...its only 60 bucks and probably needs regassing anyway. (e) undo the drive plate bolts by access through a small lower access cover near starter motor (f) remove all drive belts asap inc all tensioner pulleys etc...leave plastic timing covers on though...saves damage. (g) remove entire steering pump assembly, two 14mm bolts on firewall side mount...saves lotsa swearing later (h) drain out radiator by tap on bottom of radiator (i) drain all engine oil inc filter, then put empty filter back on engine (j) remove the two heater hoses under throttle body, it will hit the ground...see if you can catch it in a bucket, i can't (k) remove plenum inc the two hard to get to 12mm bolts on firewall support bracket (l) remove air cleaner, throttle body injector rail 9and swing to one side with fuel line still atttached...carefully (m) remove harmonic balancer...if you dont do this you will have far less clearance to dislodge the engine spigot from the transmission bell housing...just do it....you need about 50mm side clearance and the harmonic balancer is just too awkward. (n) disconnect hoses to power steering rack...fluid will go everywhere if not careful. (o) swing all the engine wiring loom over the battery side of the engine bay. Attach your engine crane and leveller bar, but do not jack up yet....just take the tension up. Confirm that all accessory hoses and pipes are seperated from the car, in particular the two heater hoses ain the battery area. Undo all the top bell housing bolts, they are all 17mm. Put one 17mm bolt back in finger tight just above where the starter motor sits, (you have removed the drive plate bolts and harmonic balancer havent you?) Remove all the lower 14mm bell housing bolts.....then remove the finger tight 17mm bolts using as many extensions as you have on your socket set. Now undo the drivers side engine mount and completely remove it as an entire assembly, you will need a long reach 17mm drive for that task...and it will be tight All the while taking the weight with the engine crane. If you have removed the harmonic balancer just rock the engine side to side and it will seperate cleanly. Just jack up and wheel away. Installation is just as hard and difficult in terms of access. Good luck here are some photos of what comes out. (6575 drive shaft main nut and split pin 32mm.JPG) (6g75 air con bracket plate.JPG) (6g75 complete power steering pump and bracket assembly.JPG) (6g75 complete under sump exhaust section.JPG) (6g75 drive plate bolts.JPG) (6g75 drive plate bolt access.JPG) (6g75 driver side drive shaft and mount.JPG) (6g75 driver side lower control arm anchor bolt.JPG) (6g75 lower control arm driver side bolt set.JPG) (6g75 power steering mounting block.JPG) (6g75 radiator drain tap.JPG) (6g75 accessories removed.JPG) (6g75 all bolt set .JPG) (6g75 all bolt set removed.JPG) (6g75 bell housing to auto view.JPG) (6g75 come out clean.JPG) Attachments ----------------  6575 drive shaft main nut and split pin 32mm.JPG (164KB - 797 downloads) 6g75 air con bracket plate.JPG (231KB - 766 downloads) 6g75 complete power steering pump and bracket assembly.JPG (259KB - 766 downloads) 6g75 complete under sump exhaust section.JPG (204KB - 757 downloads) 6g75 drive plate bolts.JPG (195KB - 1023 downloads) 6g75 drive plate bolt access.JPG (183KB - 758 downloads) 6g75 driver side drive shaft and mount.JPG (314KB - 746 downloads) 6g75 driver side lower control arm anchor bolt.JPG (148KB - 788 downloads) 6g75 lower control arm driver side bolt set.JPG (152KB - 737 downloads) 6g75 power steering mounting block.JPG (223KB - 848 downloads) 6g75 radiator drain tap.JPG (168KB - 791 downloads) 6g75 accessories removed.JPG (239KB - 694 downloads) 6g75 all bolt set .JPG (192KB - 733 downloads) 6g75 all bolt set removed.JPG (199KB - 735 downloads) 6g75 bell housing to auto view.JPG (272KB - 1316 downloads) 6g75 come out clean.JPG (267KB - 861 downloads) | ||
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| Administrator |
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Frequent flyer Gold Posts: 1093 Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | This photo of the water pump extension (located near the top of transmission bell housing), needs to be seperated and split. There just isn't enough room to get tools in without seperating the water assembly....and it takes two bolts on each head and the small single bolt in the center. very hard lesson learnt with this bit... (-EDITTED.JPG) Attachments ---------------- -EDITTED.JPG (333KB - 713 downloads) | ||
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| Clackersx |
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Frequent flyer Bronze Posts: 40 Location: South Australia | |||
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| Administrator |
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Frequent flyer Gold Posts: 1093 Location: An island off southern Tasmania. | |||
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| Clackersx |
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Frequent flyer Bronze Posts: 40 Location: South Australia | |||
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